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Whenever compiling a list of London’s finest restaurants, one might expect familiar high-end venues. Yet, situated high among these gastronomic heavyweights is a simple salonu located in a far-flung area of north London.

An Unexpected Honour

This little Turkish spot, specialising in the specialties of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the 4th finest restaurant in the metropolis by a respected food magazine. This recognition has made the family totally surprised.

“I am completely shocked,” says the owner’s son, alluding to his parents’ dedication that culminated in their small shop earning such a lofty ranking on a notable 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Simplicity

This small shop, which used to be a simple cafe before its change into a popular destination, has maintained much of its original character. It fits just over 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking show, the setup remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate space,” notes the owner.

A Namesake Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s all about the cuisine, and this establishment more than delivers. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a succulent texture.

The meat is then thrown into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in gradually. As the savoury mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is rolled neatly inside.

The wrap is usually consumed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a strong punch of taste, with soft hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil pulling it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A prominent food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe is a delight. It is doused in less syrup than usual, imparting it a richer, more aromatic and not overly sweet taste.

Outranking the Giants

Notably, this unassuming restaurant has been placed higher than several renowned three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself near the summit of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant satisfied for less than £25, similar tasting menus at luxury establishments can run into significantly more than that amount.

A Creed of Heart

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I don’t believe in that,” states the owner.

“I believe what is most important is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The philosophy is shared by the list’s compiler, who stated that if he was in a role of power, he would “require to have every chef in London train at this restaurant as a finishing school, to teach them the dangers of excess, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Path of Dedication

In contrast to many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food didn’t apprentice at elite restaurants. “I am truly proud of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

Many restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its success is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum used to be very tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she balanced a life outside work but her friends would support her to help her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. All of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.

A Accomplishment for the Culture

This restaurant’s accolade is likely to echo beyond its own doors. “In my opinion many people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the greater importance of this gastronomic triumph.